Patterns

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Turned & Topstitched Tutorial

If you have a serged pattern that you love, such as the Pampered Cheeks patterns for fitteds (and you SHOULD have the PC pattern!), but you would like to convert it to a turned & topstitched pattern, this is the tutorial for you!

Before I begin, I feel I should defend the appearance of my patterns. Cereal box and [prescription drug] tracing paper, but I won't. :) Use what you have!

Click on pictures to see a larger view, use arrow keys to move between pictures, click and drag to move, click once to close, and you can have more than one photo open at a time.

Begin by adding a seam allowance to your regular diaper pattern. I am comfortable with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, so I simply tape two pencils together. (By the way, you should *always* trace your Pampered Cheeks patterns onto some type of paper to keep your originals intact and looking nice.)

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Cut out fabrics according to pattern instructions. If you are using the Growing Cheekies or One Size Cheekies fitted patterns, then you will also sew the sewn-in soaker and transfer elastic marks.

Next we will deviate from the pattern some. It's going to cause my step numbers to be all messed up. The numbers are to help keep things in order. :)

Mark all snaps. Do NOT set the inside socket snaps, however do set the snaps for the closures, if desired (or sew on hook & loop). I used my old pattern to mark the snaps. Remember that you have added a seam allowance, so place the pattern accordingly. (If you are not using snaps and plan to sew in the snap-in soaker, you will need another modification. Please see the end notes.)

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Next layer right sides together the outer (with the hidden layer attached) to the inner lining layer, and stitch using your seam allowance. Check your work frequently to make sure you are catching all the layers. Leave an opening to turn. I prefer leaving my opening on the wing.

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

Measure to determine how much elastic you'll need. Stretch the elastic (100%) between the elastic points to measure. The legs should be the same! Sew the elastic ends down. Trim the curves and between elastic points.

Step 12

Step 13

Turn and set inside snaps for soaker.

Step 14

Topstitch. As I topstitched, I left the opening for last, so that I could check to make sure the elastic didn't get twisted or caught. When stitching around the elastic, be sure to make a casing around the elastic (sorry I forgot to take a picture) so that you don't catch the elastic in the stitching and the fabric can slide evenly along the elastic. Fold the opening in and stitch it shut.

Step 15

Step 16

Add closures and finish whatever you need to. I still serged my snap-in soaker because I can't think of how to do that one yet. :)

Step 17

Step 18

Step 19

Step 20

end notes:
If you are not using a snap press at all and wish to sew in the snap-in soaker along the back edge, this is what I recommend:
1) Attach the soaker through both the inner lining layer and the hidden layer
2) Do not sew on front hook & loop nor attach any closures to it.
3) In this way the outer layer will be completely separate from the inner and hidden layers (like above the inner is completely separate from the outer and hidden layers), thus you will be able to turn the diaper after it is sewn together.
4) After you turn the diaper you can attach whatever closures you desire. This means if you are sewing on hook & loop it will go through all the layers, but I can't think of how hard it would be to try to sew on the snap-in soaker without it showing!

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